I have been in Korea for a couple of weeks now. I have been awarded a 3 month Artist in Residency position at the Porcelain Research Centre in Yanggu. This is the site of the original deposits of sericite porcelain that have been in use more of less consistently for the past 700 years. Most importantly, it is the source of the porcelain clay that was used by the old potters to make the famous Moon Jars of antiquity.
The little town of Bangsan has one of the original sericite deposits, worked since at least the 1300’s. It also has an ancient kiln site and a very large and modern Museum, dedicated to the local porcelain history. It is this Museum and Porcelain Research Centre that makes this place so accessible and special, but there is also a small porcelain village just out of town, in a little valley of it’s own. Well, along with a few farms as well. It isn’t isolated. Everyone here in the village is an artist working with a view to the history of the site but making their own contemporary work.
There are a spread of residential houses/buildings over the site incorporating a studio on the ground floor and living quarters above. These are ideal for a family to live and work, but there is also a large new boomerang shaped complex incorporating 6 smaller, self-contained artists studios with a tiny apartment on a small mezzanine above. I’m located in one of this group, These apartments are small, so quite ideal for a single artist.

In the centre of the two wings are located the kiln room and the clay processing room. These are shared spaces. With 3 studios on either side. Each self-contained studio/flat, has its own kitchen, washing machine, toilet/shower room. As I’m a thrower, I have two electric wheels at one end in front of the glass wall leading out onto a very wide verandah. There is a large work table and banks of shelves/storage racks on either side of the room. It turns out that I am the only ’thrower’ here at the moment.

There are 2 pug mills in the central clay room and a slab roller. There is one 100mm dia vacuum pug for the studio fine clay body, and the other is a shimpo style barrel mixer, vacuum pug, not unlike a ‘peter pugger’ only fully stainless steel construction. This is for anybody to mix up or re-process their own special clay body. After use it is stripped down and left empty for the next person. It only needs 4 bolts to completely strip it down for cleaning. There is no screen for the vacuum, so that makes it so much faster, It’s such a clever little machine. I actually have one of these machines a home in my own studio, so I’m fully up to speed with it. I have been able to help one of the other residents with the strip down and re-assemble process already, as I have developed a couple of time saving tricks to make the job very quick.
The kiln room has 3 electric kilns, small, medium and large. There is a space for a humungous gas kiln that hasn’t been delivered yet, as this is the first year of occupation in this 6 studio complex, the mechanics of running this building are still being developed. There is a large gas kiln available for use in another building 200 metres up the hill a little way, that is shared by all residents of the village.
Up there also, there are 5 wood fired kilns. A couple of 5 chambered climbing kilns built from raw clay bricks made on site, in the full traditional manner, plus an anagama and a very old fashioned traditional earthenware temp kiln for the firing of traditional ‘ongi pots. There is also one of my single chambered twin bourry box wood kilns that I built here onsite 2 years ago as a paid job. Because it is the smallest of all the kilns here. It is fired the most often, simply because it is easier to fill and fire by a smaller crew, or even by just one person. Whereas the large 5 chambered climbing kilns require a village effort.


There are 13 residents artists here in Bangsan at the present time. Local Korean artists can apply to come and work here for periods of 3 to 5 years. Whereas international residents like myself, can apply for periods of 1 to 3 months. However, when I applied, the paperwork that arrived only had the 3 month option, with a possibility of another 3 month extension. I’m OK with just the 3 months. It is a little longer than I might have chosen, but I will get a lot done. In fact, because I’m here for 3 months, I’m actually starting a small vegetable garden just outside my studio for salad greens, lettuces, shallots and radishes etc.
The other residents will get most of the benefit, as I will be going just as it comes into productivity. There are two other residents here in this building that are keen to share in the garden work and rewards.
I had only been here for 2 days, when I was asked to go to a wood kiln firing in the nearby city of Yanggu.
This firing was in a kiln that I built here during one of last years 2 trips. I have been to Korea a few times now. In fact this is my 9th trip here. I always make sure to include a stay here in Bangsan/Yanggu in every trip. Although Seoul has a lot, great galleries etc. It is this small place that attracts me. Actually, it is always the very reason for the trip in every case. I discovered this special place on my first trip here back in 2016. I was searching for all the places in the world where porcelain was first discovered from first principals, by digging local sericite mica minerals from the ground and firing them. My search eventually lead me here. And I guess, that a tiny part of me has never really left.
I get invited back here once or sometimes twice a year to speak at conferences, take part in exhibitions, do demonstrations, and generally act as an international voice in the porcelain research conversation. As, I appear to be one of only very few people in the world who have gone out and foraged for unique local sources of porcelain raw materials. I suppose that I am very lucky in that I stumbled upon the local weathered Aplite version of porcelain stone around here and was able to decipher what it was and grind it up to make a single stone, porcelain body. The Director of the Porcelain Museum here in Bangsan, is one other of those very few people who has the same interest. We are porcelain brothers.
If I am the keynote speaker at the conference, as has happened twice, then I get my airfare paid for me. Which is nice but i would come anyway. I always come to do some job or other. It’s always work, some kind of work, to give a workshop, to speak at a conference, or build a kiln. This is the first time that I have come to just sit and enjoy making some pots for my own satisfaction. I intend to get some deeper insights into the very specific Korean Culture of Moon Jars. If I can make anything meaningful, I can show my work in the Art Gallery attached to the Museum at the end.
Because I arrived here in Korea at night, after an all day flight. I had to stay in Seoul overnight. I made use of this by staying for two days and visiting the four Museums that hold Moon Jars in their collections. The one in the National Museum is the best. A really lovely example. Next best is the Bernard Leach/Lucy Rie jar in the British Museum. I’ve visited it twice over the years, and although not quite as perfect in form. It is a much better example for me, as it has a couple of chips on the rim and foot that let me see inside the clay body composition. I really learnt more from this jar than the others. My Lovely Friend, Anne was in London recently, so I asked her to take some close-up images of the chips for me. Thank you Anne!
As it happens, there is a conference on Monday in a big city half way between here and Seoul, a few hours away. The Museum Director told me about it a week before I left to come here. It is titled ‘Clean and Smokeless Wood Firing’. I said, “that sounds like something that I’d be very interested in attending! Are you going? and if so can I get a life with you?. His answer was, “You are the keynote speaker!” So I quickly had to write a paper to explain my recent research in Korea, in a ‘PowerPoint Presentation’. Not too hard for me to do, as I know the subject very well.
I suppose that The Director is using the conference to promote his Museum and Research Facility and the work being carried out here by the staff and artist residents?
I really like the people here and have made so many friends, there is always a bit of initial bowing, then a hug, and finally a lot of chatter, most of which escapes me. However, if there is something that I need to know, out come the phones and translation apps. A conversation here for me is spent talking into my phone and listening to other peoples phones for the response. So different from my first trips to Japan 40 years ago, when I only had a paper dictionary. A conversation in progress

That first firing went very well, we spent 36 hours doing an extended stoneware firing with mostly unglazed pots, building up carbon inclusions and ash deposits on the fire face. I’m much too old to be staying awake for that length of time, I headed for bed at 11pm. and surfaced again at 4 am. to allow others to get a bit of sleep. The results turned out to be very good. I am always relieved first and foremost, before I’m pleased. I carry a lot of responsibility just simply because I designed and built the thing, and every one thinks that I can perform magic. There is no magic. I’m not gifted or special, I just have a lot of experience with these kinds of kilns.
Last year, I got a phone call late in the evening in Australia, it was from one of the residents here in Bangsan who was firing my wood kiln and it had stopped going up in temperature. They were perplexed, so one of them rang me on FaceTime video. She said that the kiln wasn’t going up and that The Museum Director – Mr Jung, told them to ring me for advice. She said that he told them that this had happened when I was there once, and they asked me to come and look. Mr Jung told them that I just walked up to the kiln and performed some sort of magic and it started to go up again straight way. We need to know your magic please!


I am here to learn something about moon jars. A three month, in-depth, infusion of Korean Culture, food, language and Moon Jars. I set to straight away have almost completed 9 so far, I still have to turn the feet on the last 4. It’s coming along OK for the initial attempts. I have 5 others finished, decorated and waiting for the kiln for a bisque firing. It’s quite full-on, but a great experience!






































































































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